On rainy days, camping can get downright awful when there is a large pool of water under the tent, making the tent piles shake. In fact, you will encounter rainy days on your camping trip, instead of feeling miserable and indulgent, follow these instructions to get rid of the bleak scene when camping on a rainy day. Remember, it’s all over and you’ll have a memorable experience to tell your friends on your next trip.
Guidelines For Camping On Rainy Days
1. Consider where you are going
Is it a place in an area that often rains? If that is the case, you should be prepared to deal. It is always a good idea to research the weather forecast before departure
2. Prepare a suitable tent
In addition to choosing a good waterproof tent, there are a few points to note: the tent should have a tent cover that is large enough to prevent splashing mud from becoming a major problem for friends.
3. Make sure the seam of the tent is sealed
Make sure the seam of the tent is sealed so that water cannot leak through openings into the tent
The tent floor should be in the form of a bathtub floor to prevent water from entering the tent.
The coating of the tent must be water-resistant – study product information on label packaging carefully for more details.
If you go camping for a short time, you might end up staying with a few friends in a small tent. But if your trip is longer than 3 days then bring a large tent for your comfort!
If you have to set up a tent in the rain, cover it with canvas before starting if you don’t want the inside of the tent to get wet. Then, layout a tent cover to add extra protection to the tent floor. Fold the edge of the sheet underneath the tent so that the sheet does not show out, so that water does not get into the middle of the sheet and the floor of the tent.
If there is a storm, you can try to pile the waterproof tent cover first to create temporary shelter and set up the tent underneath until it’s done.
5. Trenching around the tent is no longer necessary
With the bath-type tent floor, water wouldn’t be able to enter the tent even when the tent was in the puddle. However, if your campsite has a lot of gravel or sand, you will have to dig around as it is necessary now. In case water starts to leak into the tent floor, you should put a tented sheet inside to keep the tent dry.
6. Tent location is very important
Consider slopes, angles, protrusions, soft ground areas and avoid ditching as much as possible. Find the highest spot on your camping ground. Use caution when choosing where to place your tent as a flat, dry area can also turn into a puddle when it rains. Stay away from areas showing signs of ever flooding (eroded, dilapidated soil, fenced-off areas). Water can flow into these areas and flood in a matter of minutes when the storm returns.
7. Use a tarpaulin as a reinforcement cover and or doormat
If possible, tie a tarpaulin to a tree, stakes, or even your car to form a roof over the tent, making sure the edges of the tent are covered and water does not drip, preventing rain from pouring directly onto the tent. This solution is easiest when camping with a car. The canvas can also be placed on top of the soil at the entrance, becoming a place for wet shoes, sandals, or rinsing wet clothes before putting into the tent (bring a plastic bag to prevent mud from falling into the tent). Use sticks or other unused waterproof objects to create a place for the coat to dry.
Your coats should be waterproof, dry quickly so they don’t take longer, wear a good coat or two to ensure warmth.
8. Make sure the tent is well ventilated
Being in a tent removes moisture from your breath to condense it into water droplets, which can then fall on people and furniture. A well-ventilated tent is key to minimizing internal moisture condensation. Remember, the more ventilation the tent is, the less moisture will condense. The tent with openable top vents helps a lot in this.
9. Always have ready-to-clean towels available to remedy the dampness in the tent
If water appears in the tent, wipe the water off with a towel and wring it outside, then hang it to dry again. The faster you wipe the water, the faster the tent dries. In addition, it is also a sign for you to get out of the sleeping bag and check to see what is causing the water to enter the tent, there is a ceremony of tent covers and tension strings that need tightening or need to increase ventilation in the tent.
10. Arrange furniture properly
Put a change of clothes in a waterproof bag in case everything in the tent gets wet, unfortunately.
Leave a pair of flip-flops or a pair of loafers at the front door and everyone in the tent can ride together. Rubber boots are also a good option for walking around the campsite, but if hiking, wear climbing shoes.
Have hand warmers and super lightweight gloves available. Even in the summer, ultra-light, waterproof gloves can protect your hands from getting numb when setting up your tent and unpacking it in the rain.
11. Do things you enjoy stuck in a tent all-day
Bring books, games, drawing tools, diaries – anything you like that you can put in your backpack or car. You can bring a handy, compact deck of cards or a notebook for a crossword puzzle. You can also use a rug that turns into a comfortable camping chair to read while staying in a tent for hours.
12. Unload the tent carefully
Unpack the tent under the tent cover like when setting up a tent. If you’re going to camp into a drier area, set up the tent as soon as possible to allow plenty of time for the sun and wind to dry it out. And if you decide not to camp anymore and move to a hotel or go home, set up the tent as soon as the opportunity arises to dry it. Never put your tent away while it is still wet, or your tent will get moldy.
So, you want to learn the game of ping pong. Or would it be more correct to call it table tennis? In all honesty, it really doesn’t matter, they mean one and the same. Whether they call it table tennis or ping pong, all players share something in common, a love for the game they play. If you are coming here and ping pong is relatively new to you, then you’re in the right place.
Like almost every sport, you must first acquire the equipment needed to enjoy it. In my opinion, ping pong is one of the cheapest sports out there and one of the most fun as well. There are only three basic things that you might have to purchase when it comes to playing ping pong.
Ping pong paddles
Table tennis is played by striking the ball with a paddle which is sometimes known as a bat or a racket depending on where you live. A ping pong paddle is made up of four different parts:
The handle – This is the part of the paddle that you hold. It can come in a variety of different sizes and shapes that can affect your gameplay and suit different playing styles.
The blade – The blade of a ping pong paddle is the main body of the bat and is constructed by using multiple layers of wood (and sometimes carbon).
Sponge layer – Sitting on top of the blade is a thin layer of sponge (typically between 1.2mm and 2.5mm. As a beginner, you want to look for a paddle with a thinner layer of sponge as this will give you more control over the ball.
The rubber – Finally, sitting on top of the sponge is a layer of rubber which is what actually makes contact with the ball. There are a variety of different rubbers to suit different styles of play. To learn more check out our guide to table tennis rubbers here.
Ping pong paddles are usually rated on three different things: Control, spin and speed. Beginners should look for a paddle with a high control rating and low spin and speed ratings. As you improve and get better at controlling the ball you can look for a racket with lower control and start working on generating more speed and spin with your shots. Click here to see read our list of top ping pong paddles in 2020.
Ping pong balls
Like a lot of other sports to play table tennis, you’ll need a ball. Ping pong balls are small, round and made out of plastic. The standard regulation size is 40 mm and typically they come in two different colors: White and orange.
Ping pong balls are rated in quality by a star system from 1 – 3 stars. One star balls are used for recreational play and to be used in an official tournament a ball must be three-stars. For more information check out our ping pong ball buying guide here.
Ping pong tables
Ping pong tables are one of the more expensive bits of equipment you’ll need. You can spend anywhere from a couple of hundred dollars to a few thousand for the top of range competition standard tables. If you’re looking to buy your own one then check out our top-rated ping pong tables list here. But, you don’t necessarily need to own your own as bars and clubs with tables can be found almost everywhere!
You can also get ping pong conversion tops that sit on top of other tables and allow you to get the quality of a real table without taking up as much space.
Other accessories you might want
While not essential to start playing you might want to look into a few other accessories and table tennis gear.
A good pair of shoes – For beginners, most sports or gym shoes will work fine, but, as you progress and play more, you might want to invest in a pair of shoes designed specifically with ping pong players in mind.
A paddle case – Table tennis bats aren’t the strongest and can get damaged easily by water, dust and getting knocked. We always recommend picking up a table tennis paddle case to keep your racket safe when you’re not using it.
A ping pong robot – If you begin to take your game more serious and want to practice even more then you can buy a table tennis robot that will fire balls at you to allow you to practice your shots.
Now that you have the basic equipment down, it’s time to put that stuff to good use and to have some fun. First things first, how do you hold your bat?
How to hold the bat
The first thing to do before starting play is to make sure you’re holding the paddle correctly. There are two main ways to grip your bat in table tennis: Shakehand and penhold grip. Each grip has its pros and cons but most experts recommend that the best grip for beginners is the shakehand grip.
To read more about how to hold the paddle check out our article on how to hold a ping pong paddle here.
Learn the basic rules
The basic rules are important to know when starting out. I know there are a ton of rules out there for ping pong but you don’t need to know them all right now. If you don’t feel like reading them now, or you feel as if you will probably forget, you can always have someone at a club explain the rules to you better while you are playing.
How a game is played
When you and another person play a set of games it’s called a “match”. A match usually consists of a best three out of five games; so you could end up playing anywhere from three to five games total.
When two players play a single game, the first to 11 points wins or win by two points. (I will explain the two or more thing in a bit).
The player who serves first is usually determined differently depending on the club (some choose at random, flip a coin, hit the ball, etc). You will serve the ball two times then the other person will serve two times, this continues even if you are one point away from losing. (There is no “I get to serve because I’m about to lose rule)
In a game, if you and your opponent both reach 10 points it is called a “deuce.” A deuce is the only exception to the two serve rule. Say that you just hit your last of two serves and you lost or won the point which made the score 10-10. You would still give the ball to the opponent to serve as usual, but he will only serve one time.
If he wins that point, even though the score is 11-10, he does not win yet. This would be “his advantage.” You don’t really have to know the number any longer as long as you know who is ahead as the first to pull ahead by two wins.
If you win the next point to even it up, it would again be a “deuce”. This continues until someone has gained a two-point lead and ultimately wins.
After each game is played, the players then switch sides of the table, but the service always starts on the same side.
How to serve the ball
The official rules around serving from the ITTF can be a little overwhelming so we’ve summarised the basic rules around a legal table tennis serve below.
The serve should begin with the ball in an open palm – This is to prevent players from spinning the ball as they toss it.
The ball must be thrown into the air at least 6 inches – This is to prevent players from serving quickly or hiding the ball to deceive their opponent.
You must strike the ball behind the end line of the table – This is to prevent players from getting very close to the net before serving.
Once making contact the ball must bounce on your side of the table, bounce over the net and then bounce on the opponent’s side – You can’t hit it straight over the net.
Some other rules to know
Here are some rules that you might see come up while playing. If someone hits the ball to you and it hits the very edge of the table on your side, (even if it barely hits it and goes straight to the floor) it would be the other person’s point. While it’s almost impossible to return, it really doesn’t happen that often to where it’s a problem.
Also, if your opponents hits the ball and it hits the net (not on a serve) and it still goes over onto your side, it is their point, even if it doesn’t bounce more than an inch. These kind of shots are tricky to counter and can be kind of ridiculous sometimes but they are a part of the game.
Once your reaction time gets good enough, hitting these shots can sometimes be possible. You also must let the ball bounce before hitting it. This is how it differs from real tennis. If your opponent hits the ball before it bounces, and the ball was clearly going to hit the table, then they would lose the point.
Say if you were to hit the ball and you hit it too hard over the table, and the other player hit the ball anyway, whether intentionally or accidentally, you would still lose the point so long as the ball was clearly going out of the table.
Find a club
One of the best ways to enjoy ping pong is to join a club. I recommend that you try using the internet to your advantage. Look for the closest club in your area, and if they have an updated number on file, try to call them and ask for hours of when they play.
Most of the time the clubs have a large diverse playing field. If you’re afraid that you’re too old or too young to go, no worries, there are plenty of people aged anywhere from 10 to 60+ that play on a regular basis (and the older guys can be really good too!) Clubs usually have a large diversity of people and it’s a great way to make new acquaintances.
For most people, playing at clubs is one of the fastest ways to improve your skills in the smallest amount of time. There are usually always people willing to practice with you and give advice and tips based off the feedback that they get from playing with you. Some of the more experienced players can see exactly what you’re doing wrong and try to adjust it in a way that makes you better.That is why I always found it better to play with someone who knows what they are doing, even if they are 5 times better than me.
Sometimes clubs host tournaments or can tell you where the closest one is. Club tournaments are a really fun thing to experience and there really isn’t anything like it. People from all around the area, sometimes hours away, will drive to these tournaments to play. It’s really interesting to see all the different ways each person plays.
Some people will have crazy serves, wild hits, or just play in a way you’ve never seen before. If you think you’re good enough you can enter a tournament but don’t be discouraged if you lose, there is a lot of really tough competition out there. Once you find someone to practice with it’s important to get the basic skills mastered before moving on to harder things.
Hone in on the basic skills
Before you can learn how to play at a higher skill level, you need to hone in on the skills that you can use to further develop your game. Similar to playing ping pong, you have to learn to ride a bike before you can learn to ride with no hands or to do something crazy like a wheelie. That’s why learning the two basic strokes are very important. Some of the terms people use to describe different types of shots can seem very complicated. It can be a difficult concept to grasp unless you really get to apply different types of shots. So, for now, let’s just start you off with two; forehand and backhand.
The forehand and backhand are the only two kinds of hits you’ll use in a game. Every shot will build of either of these types, some more complicated than others. In case you don’t know what some of these terms mean, let me explain. For the sake of ease, let’s say that you’re right-handed. A forehand hit would mean that you are hitting the ball on your right-hand side. A backhand hit would be on your left side. It’s quite difficult to explain some of these positions through words, however.
My best advice would be to look up instructional videos of some of these basic skills. The concept of a backhand and forehand shot are the bare basics that every player out there needs to be able to hit with consistency before moving on to more difficult shots. If you have a club, find someone who is willing to help or also needs some practice and do some drills just hitting back and forth with either backhand or forehand.
Time to get started
Now that you know how to get started, you can actually go out there and do it. Getting excited to play is only half the fun. Closely follow some of the advice I’ve given and you too can share that same love for the game of ping pong.
You can notice that most of our rubber sheets have ratings of speed, spin, and control. A speed rating below 50 means very good control. From 50-70 is a good all-around rating and anything over 70 we consider fast for offensive play.
The preferred rubber sheets are mostly smooth inverted and sticky. Some players are still using the pips out for faster and more direct shots. Others may use long pips on one side, that imparts a knuckleball effect and reverses the opponents spin. A small percentage of players use an anti-spin rubber for defense which also reverses the opponents spin. Long pips and anti spin are mostly used for easy control against spinny serves and loops, but it also takes more practice and more time to get used to. The sponge behind the rubber comes in different thicknesses, from 1.2 mm to 2.5 mm. The sponge thickness and the top sheet color (red or black) can be selected before you add a rubber sheet to the shopping cart.
The thinner the sponge the better the control, a thicker sponge gives you more speed with less control. It is therefore possible to slow down a fast racket by using a rubber with thinner sponge. Some players will use a fast offensive rubber on the forehand and a slower more controllable sheet on the backhand. All rubber sheets are priced per sheet only. For a complete racket you will need 2 rubber sheets.
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by Jason R. Shaver (Megaspin.net partner)
How does the sponge thickness affect performance? If it affects speed, why are rubbers sheets given one speed rating irrespective of the chosen thickness?
The quick and easy rule is that thicker sponges (2.0mm or more) results in more offensive play. 1.9mm to 1.5mm is used by more ‘control’ or all around players while smaller numbers is common for short and long pipped rubbers.
When you swing at a ball and make contact, the sponge catches the ball and slows it down. As the ball keeps moving into the sponge and hits the wood underneath, the sponge helps kick the ball back out.
During the whole above process of catching and throwing the ball, the sponge allows the rubber topsheet to put friction on the ball, adding larger amounts of spin than could be achieved without the sponge.
When looking at the speed and spin ratings of different rubbers, you may notice that they don’t break them down by different sponge thicknesses. This is because the effect of the sponge changes depending on how you hit and play. For example, if you take a soft swing, the sponge would slow the ball down (by absorbing the impact), but a hard loop will speed up your shot (by allowing you to take bigger swings).
Some rubbers are labeled by thickness (in millimeters) such as 1.9 or 2.0, while others are labeled as MAX, MX, or Maximum. ITTF rules state that the maximum of the sponge and topsheet cannot be greater than 4.00mm. There is no hard rule to how thick the rubber topsheet is (1.4mm to 1.7mm are common thicknesses for topsheets), so sponges labeled as Maximum are produced by the manufacturer to be as thick as they can while still staying under 4.00mm, usually they include a large enough margin of error to counteract the thickness of the glue used to attach the rubber to the blade.
Why does the hardness of a rubber sheet matter?
The degree represents how hard the sponge is. A lower number means a softer sponge, a higher number means a firmer sponge. To give an idea, a rubber-band is around 25 and a car tire is around 80. Most table tennis rubbers will be between 30 and 45.
A lower number will tend to provide more spin at lower speeds (including serves).
A higher number will tend to provide more spin at higher speeds.
Players who tend to play a ‘Chinese’ style (straighter elbow when looping) will find a higher number to be better.
Players who tend to play an ‘European’ style (bent elbow when looping) will find a lower number to be better.
Higher rated players will tend to enjoy a higher number than beginners.
Beginners (under 1200 USATT rating) will not be able to feel a difference. When in doubt, choose a lower to medium number.
What is a high tension/pre-tensed/tensor rubber sheet?
With the banning of VOC based glues (such as speed glues) and booster, manufacturers need another way to provide the extreme spin. Speed glue worked by swelling the sponge with what is basically a combination of rubber cement and paint thinner. This has the effect of massively stretching the topsheet beyond what would be done with normal manufacturing. Tension rubbers are rubbers where the topsheet is stretched before gluing it to the sponge during manufacturing.
There are two different methods of ‘tensioning’ rubber, chemical and mechanical:
Mechanically tensioned rubbers are produced by gluing the rubber topsheet to the sponge in a chamber with negative pressure (such as a weak vacuum), this causes the sponge to expand (visualize a marshmallow in a microwave).
Chemically tensioned rubbers are produced by the same basic method as normal speed gluing, but the solvent is soaked into the sponge itself instead of the glue. This allows stronger glues to be used which keeps the effect active for much longer than typical speed-glues and boosters.
It seems that each brand has their own twist to the above processes, here are some highlights:
What is anti-spin rubber?
An anti-spin rubber is a specialty rubber built to generate no spin on the ball at all. The term anti-spin is actually kind of a misnomer. The rubber does not automatically produce ‘flat’ shots, but instead it tends to ‘reverse’ the spin coming at you. If your opponent produces a hard top-spin shot, your return show will have a good amount of backspin.
Anti-spin topsheets are generally hard (and durable) and slick, more like a hard car tire than a normal table tennis rubber. The sponges range from medium soft to extremely soft. This has the effect of slowing the ball down, even to the extreme where dropping a ball on the rubber barely produces a bounce. The best example of this is the Butterfly Super Anti and Butterfly Super Anti Special.
There are two core groups who use anti-spin rubbers, “combination bat” players and beginning “modern defender” players. For combination bat players, anti-spin rubber (especially with soft sponges) allow the player to deal with hard, fast loops and drives and the speed changes can really throw off opponents. For modern defenders, the long term goal is usually to move on to long pipped rubbers. By starting with anti-spin, the players are able to focus on developing the fundamentals of their style.